knight rider online

TurbomanKnight wrote:$39 delievered is express or regular freight?

Fed ex ground

Same company i used with your turbo cast wheel

That means FAST SHIPPING!!!!!

I've just bought the K.I.T.T version from Ebay. The total cost is outrageous - 63$ including shipment & insurance to israel.

But heck - it's worth every cent!
Simply can't wait for the K.A.R.R version.

WAIT! How much was for the car before shipping and insurance?

800th POST!!!!!!!!!! WOOT WOOT!!!!!!!!

TurbomanKnight wrote:WAIT! How much was for the car before shipping and insurance?

800th POST!!!!!!!!!! WOOT WOOT!!!!!!!!

28$ and congrats

lol Thanks.

The diecast KITT you could of bought for like $22-$24. And it would have been a few dollars less with the shipping and insurance included.

TurbomanKnight wrote:lol Thanks.

The diecast KITT you could of bought for like $22-$24. And it would have been a few dollars less with the shipping and insurance included.

Where can I find it cheaper? (for the next time I mean).

My friend, eBay!!!!!!!

TurbomanKnight wrote:My friend, eBay!!!!!!!

LOL
I saw one seller who sold it for 24$ but he was not that nice, so I decided to buy it from a different seller.

A bit off-topic here...I've just gone through several toy shops in my area and saw several ERTL KITTs. Every one of them is the second version, the ones without the orange foglights. For my taste, I still prefer the first version with the orange lights since they look nicer without the black dots in the middle. Another difference I have noticed is the front scanner light assembly. The second version KITT has a thin black line going through the entire length of the scanner. It is very obvious and quite frankly, very annoying to look at. The first version KITT does not have this nuisance, the scanner is clear. Perhaps there are other differences inside the car but I didn't bother to open the packages since I'm not buying one. Just some points to ponder on...

Weird, my second issue KITT has no difference except for the lights & numbering on the bottom different.

This seller had got to be joking on this auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 25013&rd=1

andy-kitt wrote:Weird, my second issue KITT has no difference except for the lights & numbering on the bottom different.

Same here. I noticed no scanner difference either on any of the 2nd version releases I saw including the one I own.

I've noticed the difference between the 1st and 2nd version scanners when they are turned on. My 1st version is clearer than the ones in the stores right now. But if your copies are also clear, good for you guys. You're lucky. It may just be a small difference after all (but I definitely did notice it).

Arr, you're making more sense now, open the bonnet of the two next to each other and the scanner lens is angled on the old one, but verticle on the new one! Is that what you noticed?

P.S. how can I put a photo on here to show you?

andy-kitt wrote:Arr, you're making more sense now, open the bonnet of the two next to each other and the scanner lens is angled on the old one, but verticle on the new one! Is that what you noticed?

P.S. how can I put a photo on here to show you?

I think you nailed it. That's probably the reason why they're not exactly the same. They are angled differently. Reason? Anybody's guess is as good as mine...

I happen to think the scanner looks more true to the show when looked at from above rather than head-on. I'm in the process of soldering yellow LEDs in my K.A.R.R. model currently. So far I was able to remove all of the original clear LEDs, but the solder on some of the points became attached, which results in three of the five not lighting up. (I tested the connections before I soldered them in.)

It's going to be a royal pain in the ass trying to seperate the solder now, so that's what's going to hold me back. The chip that the LEDs are soldered on does not seem to be removeable (it would make things a lot easier if it was!), so using a "solder sucker" might be difficult.

use the soldering iron to melt the solder when removing the old LEDs, what colour LEDs you going with?

I'm using yellow LEDs as the replacements. Got two in so far but oddly enough the color tint of one of the lights was slightly dimmer than the other. I tested out my other yellow ones and they seem to be as bright as the one I got in there. I had one extra spare in the variety packs I bought. I'll post a pic when it's all done. Hopefully I'll finish it up tonight.

OK, I finished it up last night and here's some pictures. The newest ones are in the "Updated K.A.R.R." folder. I also took some shots while it was still taken apart for anyone who is curious to see how the car works.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/solid_snake782/my_photos

Your Aoshima KARR definitely looks better now Lost Knight. More truer to the show. Its no wonder many members here are clamoring to get their hands on the upcoming ERTL version. Knowing how to use a soldering gun really has its perks.

Thats excellent Lost Knight, so are all LEDs the same, just remove the red ones and solder new ones? how do you get the polarty (+ -) right?

Have you painted the silver on the wheel arches or did it come that way? it looks oh so real !!

andy-kitt wrote:Thats excellent Lost Knight, so are all LEDs the same, just remove the red ones and solder new ones? how do you get the polarty (+ -) right?

Have you painted the silver on the wheel arches or did it come that way? it looks oh so real !!

Thanks, guys. I painted on the silver wheel wells with a silver Pilot paint pen. It requires a steady hand as does the soldering. I recommend taking the die-cast off and then painting them so you don't accidentally get anything on the wheels.

All LEDs come with extended connections, with the positive end being longer (I think). I used my pocket knife and just snapped them shorter making sure to still keep one end longer than the other. To know which end is on top or bottom, I just put the connections on the solder before I removed anything. The longer ends go on the bottom. The soldering was a bit meticulous because my iron was a little dull (I just scraped it on concrete to clean it up).

It's a very narrow space, so again a steady hand is key or else you'll melt the surrounding plastic (which I did a little but don't care because the metal covers it up). I also stuck a thin nail in between the space to protect the wires underneath so that I couldn't accidentally melt them.

Thanks for the info, just deciding if to buy some yellow LEDs and do as you have or buy a ready made kit